The "Road to Morocco"

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Ferry Portsmouth to Bilbao

The P&O ferry ‘Pride of Bilbao’ left Portsmouth on time at 8 pm on Friday 26 February and was due to arrive in Bilbao on Sunday at 8 am. However, we were warned of force 10 gales in the Bay of Biscay and the captain took the decision to steer west away from the gale before turning south towards La Coruna and then along the coast to Bilbao, an extra 180 miles but it avoided the storm.

In Sopelano

We finally arrived at 3 pm and made our way to Camping Sopelana a few miles from the port and a 10 minute walk from a sandy beach.
The site on a slope overlooking the sea was mainly statics but well maintained and clean. We booked in for 2 nights.

 

In Bilbao

In the morning took a walk to the beach and saw that there are good walks on the hills overlooking the sea. After lunch drove to the Guggenheim Museum on the banks of the River Nervion which flows through Bilbao. It was a bright sunny day and the temperature reached 21°. The Guggenheim, an amazing structure of aluminium (or stainless steel) and stone similar to Travertine marble, is closed on Mondays and the area around is being developed with lovely walkways and gardens as well as new office and apartment blocks. We drove almost to the top of a hill overlooking the town (there is a cog railway) from where there were great views. We returned to the old town which is almost exclusively pedestrianised, the streets are narrow and lead to large squares. We visited the cathedral which has been beautifully renovated with a great combination of ancient and modern, the cloister is very peaceful considering it is in the centre of town with buildings all around. Bilbao is definitely worth a visit.

Bilbao to La Cabrera

Left Bilbao at 9.45 am and arrived at Camping Pico de la Miel just off the motorway by 3 pm. The site is mainly statics but there is a dedicated area for touring vans with a clean well laid out facilities block. There is a spectacular mountain range just behind the site but we could not find any areas where walking was permitted and the small town is very run down but building work was in progress.

La Cabrera to Santa Elena

Left La Cabrera in heavy rain just after 9.30 am. The motorway around Madrid was horrendous but the gorge of Despenaperros was spectacular from a viewpoint with parking on the motorway. Major road works are in progress around the gorge and we had to backtrack for Camping Despenaperros on the north edge of Santa Elena in a pine grove. Excellent facilities but the site was waterlogged in places as it was raining. We drove through the national park and then to La Carolina for shopping but it continued to rain all afternoon and evening.

Santa Elena to Estepona

We got away by 9.30 am, it was still raining and there was dense mist. Once the road descended to under 2500 ft the mist cleared and by the time we reached Camping Parque Tropical around 2 pm there was bright sunshine. The site is on a slope, pitches are tight and divided by trees, the facilities are clean and the staff friendly and helpful. We walked to the beach which definitely needed cleaning, there was even a dead goat.

Around Estepona

After a leisurely morning drove to Algeciras to recce ferry port and after checking with various companies who all had their own counter finally bought a ticket to Tangier for Sunday. We then drove to Gibraltar and took the road to the upper rock for which there was a charge of £10 per person to include the impressive St Michael’s cave, the apes den, various military sites and a Moorish castle. Return from there in the late afternoon was exceedingly slow, it took 90 minutes to get to the frontier. Diesel in Gib is much cheaper then in Spain at 69.9 p per litre (prices are in Sterling).

In Estepona

It rained all night and all day. We ventured out in the morning to shop at Carrefour, a huge supermarket on the outskirts of Estepona but apart from that had a very leisurely day in the van.

Spain to Morocco

It was still raining but the wind had dropped when we got away at 10.30 am. The official check-in time at Algeciras port was 11.30 and we got there well before for the ‘Balearia’ fast ferry due to depart at 13.30 hrs. There was no problem with check-in and we were first in the queue. To our horror and consternation we were refused boarding, the excuse ‘too long’ so had to walk back to where we had purchased the ticket 2 days earlier and were issued with a new ticket for the slower ‘Comarit’ service which looked like a converted old cross-channel ferry bought by Morocco and used primarily for lorries and cheap Moroccan coach tours to Spain. The journey took 3 hours and we arrived in Tangier at 5 pm local time (6 pm Spanish time).