Martil to Alcala de los Gazules, Spain

Left Martil just before 8.30 am for Ceuta (Sebta) where we arrived just before 10 am. We bought a ticket for the next ferry to Algeciras officially due to depart at 14.05 but it actually left one hour late.

The crossing took just under 2 hours but of course Spanish time is 2 hours ahead of Moroccan time in the summer so it was after 6 pm local time when we cleared port. It took less than one hour on the motorway to Alcala de los Gazules and Camping Los Gazules but then disaster struck. The pitches, divided by sturdy wooden fence poles, are tight and there are curb stones to each pitch plus in our case a tree hindering visibility. We hit the fence and acquired a not insignificant dent which means the panel will have to be replaced but it is of course just cosmetic. Apart from that, this is a nice site, excellent super clean facilities, a restaurant and shop as well as a pool. It had rained when we left Morocco, in Spain there was beautiful sunshine.

In Alcala de los Gazules

Not yet used to Spanish time. Woke at 6 am Moroccan time as usual but it was of course 8 am in Spain. Had a lazy morning and drove to the pretty village of Alcala with its whitewashed houses built up the side of a fairly steep hill. We asked for directions to the tourist office and a local man kindly drove us there. We got a map of the town and information on local walks. Everyone we encountered here speaks only Spanish except the receptionist at the camp who is Dutch and speaks all languages. Extensive work was in progress on the road we would have to take to get to the motorway and the diversion would be too tight with our caravan in tow. We understood from the foreman that work would be finished by the next morning but to us it looked unlikely.

Returned to camp for lunch and then just beyond the campsite we followed one of the walks featured in the literature we had obtained through countryside by the side of a small stream where there used to be many mills. Treated ourselves to dinner at the camp restaurant, excellent value at €30 for 2 including 3 courses, a bottle of wine and coffee.

Alcala to Caceres

Left Alcala Los Gazules Camping just before 8.30 am. We had no problems getting out of the village, workmen moved their diggers to make room for us. A straight forward run all the way on motorways. The weather was decidedly cool and by the time we arrived at Caceres it was raining and only 14°. Camp Municipal Ciudad de Caceres is unlike any campsite we have ever visited.

Pitches are terraced and each has a beautifully tiled hut containing loo, shower, washbasin, towel rail, loo paper, mirror over sink unit with power point, hot and cold water. There is a water point outside the hut with hose attached, a power point , outside light and separate outside wash basin, table and 2 chairs, amazing. There was even free WIFI. The site is located next to the stadium and it was just a short drive to the centre of town. The old town is built on a hill and is now surrounded by a newer part of town with a wide boulevard. It was still raining and we decided to come back next day to explore.

In Caceres

A very wet day, too wet to go sightseeing. We finally ventured out in the afternoon to Carrefour for shopping and to recce the road for the next morning. Decided to leave Spain as soon as possible as the weather in France on the other side of the Pyrenees was much better according to the Internet. Will try to make Burgos tomorrow. Paid for Caceres campsite, great value at only €15 per night inclusive of electricity.

Caceres to Vitoria/Gasteiz

Left Caceres at 8.05 am, a record for us. It was still damp and cold. We reached the outskirts of Burgos by 1.30 pm as it was motorway nearly all the way and decided to continue to Vitoria/Gasteiz. Arrived at Camping Ibaya just after 3 pm. The reception is a bar/restaurant and the site is next to a sports centre and industrial park. A small site with some statics, very clean and reasonably priced at €17.30 per night inclusive of electricity.

Vitoria to Jonzac, France

Left Camping Ibaya at 8.20 am and took the AP1 to Deba on the coast from where it became the AP8 to the French border. This is a spectacular road, a great engineering feat, viaduct/tunnel/viaduct almost all the way to the border. In France the road became the A63 to Dax and then the N10, a flat straight road with many lorries. We got to Jonzac around 2.30 pm but the Municipal Camping Megisseries on the River Seugue and located almost in the centre of town was full. This is a very small and very popular site with some very large pitches, it is prudent even in low season to book in advance. We drove on to Camping Les Castors, 2 Km from the town centre.

This is a very professionally run, clean site but at least 75% of the total area comprises well maintained statics. There is a pool (covered), boules court, kiddies play area and excellent sanitary facilities. We had a lazy afternoon in camp and ordered croissants for breakfast.

In Jonzac

A sunny day, had a lazy morning and enjoyed the croissants. Drove to the tourist office in town, right next to the castle and got a town map and town walk in English.

Jonzac is a lovely place and their market did not disappoint, we bought fruit, veg, meat and cheese, all excellent quality.



Returned to camp for lunch but the music from the camps lunch and subsequent dance drove us back to town where we visited the gardens around the thermal bathes and then drove to the working windmill which is near the casino and a watermill making oil but it was past 6 pm and it was closed. It was a most enjoyable warm day with temperatures at 20-22°.

Jonzac to Fresnay sur Sarthe

Left Camping Les Castors just before 8.30 am and drove to Pons where we joined the motorway (A10) and then had motorway via Poitiers, Tours and Le Mans to Fresnay. Arrived at Camp Municipal Le Sans Souci at around 2 pm. This is a very nice site with tall yew hedges round each pitch, on a terraced slope overlooking the Sarthe river. The site warden was most helpful, he gave us a town map and literature on interesting areas around Fresnay.

He also suggested we occupy the largest pitch which is particularly private. In the afternoon we took a stroll into town built on a cliff looking down on the river, a charming place.

In Fresnay and vicinity

Had a lie-in and it was after 11 am when we finally left camp to get diesel and shopping at a Super U in town. We then took a drive on the town side of the river, opposite the campsite. After lunch drove to Saint Leonard des Bois, a small village with 517 inhabitants on the river Sarthe and in the heart of the Alpes Mancelles. There is a campsite which also acts as tourist office where we got leaflets showing various walks. We decided to follow the shortest walk of 5 Km but we had not anticipated the steep and sometimes muddy climb. It took us over 2 hours and we were exhausted but there had been some great views and it did feel as though we had achieved something.

In Fresnay

Leisurely morning. Drove to tourist office in town and then walked along the river opposite the campsite and took a path up the cliff overlooking the camp. A very scenic route and we took many photos.

Returned to camp for lunch and then drove to Saint Celery-le-Gerei, a pretty (but starting to be commercialised) village with an 11th century church at the top of the cliff, an old bridge over the Sarthe and a chapel standing in a meadow with the river flowing round, crescent shaped.

After a picnic of coffee and cake drove to a Belvedere at Mont de Avaloirs, a huge tower first built in 1914, extended in 1954 and rebuilt in 1994 in concrete with what looked like a huge satellite dish on top so that it would always be above tree level. The explanatory boards both at the top and on the ground were well presented but of course all in French. We returned to camp via scenic routes.

Explored vicinity of Fresnay

Leisurely morning and around 11 am left camp for Beaumont-sur-Sarthe which turned out not to be a very interesting place. The Halles, a ruined castle and a rebuilt Roman bridge were the only places of interest. The Motte with mini-golf at the top was overgrown and therefore did not offer the views promised.

Drove on to Sille-Le-Guillaume and on the way stopped at Saint Remy de Sille where there was a very interesting 12th century church in which there was a Roll of Honour listing English and Canadian nationals who died in WW1.

In Sille-Le-Guillaume we parked by the former chateau (now council offices) and had our picnic lunch. The adjacent church of Notre Dame de Sille had a vaulted wooden ceiling, similar to the ceiling at Remy, but this church was more impressive from the outside as it is at the top of the hill, just behind the chateau, with great views over the town rooftops and the hills beyond. It appeared a busy and prosperous town and we found the tourist office close to the railway station.

We drove to the Foret de Sille and the lake where we parked close to the ‘plage’. It is obviously a very popular place with local people, there are children’s play areas, cafes, pedalos, sailing boats, etc. We walked round the lake, approximately 3½ Km, past large static and regular campsites none of which were yet open. Returned to camp via Super U where we bought wine to take home. Somehow we locked ourselves out of the van and had to climb in through the skylight.

Fresnay to London

Our reservation for the ferry from Calais was for 4.30 pm so we did not rush ourselves in the morning and left camp around 10 am. It was motorway all the way and an uneventful journey. We got to Calais by 2 pm, had time to fill up with diesel, and P&O offered us an earlier sailing. Everything went smoothly and we were home just after 6 pm local time to a huge pile of mail and laundry.

Epilogue

It was a fantastic eight week trip (five in Morocco) and there were so many amazing sights and experiences that it is difficult to decide on a highlight but perhaps for us townies it was Mhamid where the desert begins and civilisation as we know it ends.

A few facts and figures:-

We visited 2 continents and 4 countries,
Travelled on 4 ferries
Spent 55 nights away:- 2 on board the Pride of Bilbao and 53 on 24 camp sites.
The entire journey (London back to London) was 7293 miles:- 1050 miles at sea, 2090 miles "exploring" solo, 4153 miles towing the Airstream
Temperature variations - Plus 1 degree when we left London and Plus 39 degrees south of M'hamid in the Sahara.

Costs:-

Ferries from Europe to North Africa vary greatly but as an example a return can be around £200.00 for a car, caravan and 2 people
Camp sites in Morocco averaged out at around £5.50 per night including electricity
Fuel is state controlled and cost 7.3 Dirhams per litre which equates to approx. 65p per litre for Gasoil 50 (regular diesel)
Food is good and inexpensive if you buy local produce - for example Moroccan bread cost 1.3 Dirhams (10.5p) for a standard loaf equal to our small loaf.
Shopping in Morocco is easy as every village will have at least one small store that sells all the daily basics and they all have refrigerated display cabinets for such things as yoghourt, butter etc.
Most of the major towns have a Marjane (sort of Moroccan Tesco) which sell every thing, including alcohol for those that must have their "tipple" which included us!

Finally - border controls and security

We had absolutely no problems with getting in to or out of Morocco
Travelling alone is great as there are many "small" sites which are too small to handle groups.
We never ever felt threatened IN FACT we felt safer in Morocco than in Spain!